Thursday, December 20, 2012

some "merry" Christmas thoughts

It's not even the end of the world day, or it already passed without no one noticing it, but today looks like it.
Some were saying the world would be in darkness, well I can say that in this part of the world, we already live in darkness except for the grayish milky light we get for a few hours a day around noon. 
I'd rather join the imaginary Christmas some friends have made up for us hybrids - the one of cobras rattling merry carols on well known Moroccan Christmas markets. 
Just for you to know, we hybrids didn't only go to school on camels in Casablanca but we also had harnessed cobra-teams when we needed a swift ride across the desert. And of course , our pets were no dogs or cats , they were baby cobras ... 
Speaking about these lovely animals, I couldn't forget to mention this friend who refuses to eat bananas because, as everyone knows, snakes , especially the highly venomous ones, have a perverted habit of biting the end of bananas on their trees... Well if you're fond of bananas... think about it. Some people may have lots of venom coming out of their mouth because they ate too many bananas? 

Yes ... I just realized it looks like nighttime already (it is 14:50 pm CET) because the end of the world has already started on the other side of the planet. Strangely enough, my friends based in Australia are now still blabbing on Facebook and I have to admit I am afraid of zombies, even if there is a computer between us. 
The good is that the end of the world could save us from Christmas hemorrhaging . 
I declared a war on this holiday the day I accidentally (well accidentally,  I was teaching some salsa steps to a former boxer) fell on the corner of a book shelf , and my head bled like a slaughtered pig.  The worst is that afterwards, with a hole in my head, I still had to fight my mother and the boxer to avoid being taken to hospital for stitches. I had beautiful long hair, and really couldn't stand the idea of having a large spot shaved on my head  to allow the sewing. No need to say I won the fight. 
Since then, I decided  to stay away from Christmas. It is very annoying, however, as it keeps on sticking to me wherever I go (except in Morocco). You may not be interested in Christmas but Christmas is interested in you. 
I did keep on dancing salsa though, and had my head cracked another time a few years years later. 

Cherchez l'erreur... *en francais dans le texte.










Friday, December 7, 2012

this year's angel hopes to upgrade into next year's devil


She gave me a call and asked if I could be the angel... I didn't really like the idea of personifying the angel, since I thought the devil's part was a much funnier one to play, but when she subtly added that her mother, who had just arrived from Vietnam, would be cooking that evening, I was ready to agree with anything on earth just to be there.

In the Czech republic, Saint Nicolas' day is nearly as important as Christmas. Every year, on December 5th, you will meet loads of Saints walking around the streets with angels and devils, and children in most households expect, with fear and respect, the arrival of the trio to their homes. I had never received the visit of the noble (yet scary) guests in my childhood, and now for the first time, I had the opportunity to be part of the show.
She had invited me to a colorful gathering.When I arrived, first thing I saw was the kitchen table covered with Mummy's delicious Vietnamese specialties. There was many kids running around, some I knew, some not, just as their parents. I quickly noticed that most couples were mixed ones - Czechs with partners from four different continents. Lovely, I felt totally in my element.
I was a bit worried about my premiere since the angel's part was not very clear to me (Now I know: carry the sweets , give them away, and sermonize the devil if too scary for the kids - yeah, it's not the funniest part in fact), but I got some food and some wine, met my fellow companions, future devil and St Nicolas to be, and felt instantly much better.
The angel's part doesn't go with me was I saying... I look more like a devil... but nothing to be done, I had to put the blond wig on, the white dress, the  wings and the halo, and there were we going.. The devil had a beautiful costume made of real black fur with a big tail on it and a mask with red horns, a chain around the hips and a big gunny bag  with something that looked like a kids hand hanging out... I was an angel that was turning green of envy!
Anyway, all three dressed up, here we were knocking at the door. The kids were all gathered on one place, they were about 10, the two little ones in the arms of their parents. Oh my, their face expressions when we entered were priceless! It was a mixture of astonishment, apprehension or fear, and respect. Saint Nicolas was solemnly reading from the parents list, asking the kids, one by one,  about (not) ordering their rooms, (not) eating veggies,  playing (too much) on the computer, (not) listening to their parents.... Some kids were admitting, some were denying, but what was sure if that they all feared the devil - while poor devil was a bit censored for not willing to traumatize the little ones who had started to sob as we made our grand entree- . And me, the nice one, gently smiling or retaining hysterical laughter, avoiding direct eye contact with the kids who knew me well, I was dying to scare them, for I was almost bothered by their intense way of looking at us, sometimes scared, sometimes inquisitive ...
Saint Nicolas was obviously recognized by his daughter who was claiming not to be afraid and when asked to recite a poem said a decided "NO". She ended up doing it though to be granted the sweets.
We were still laughing as we left the apartment, as we were getting back into our civil clothes, as we smoked a cigarette on the balcony and we were still laughing as we came back to the party.
It was a really good evening. And as I was still worried that some children could have recognized me, the older son of my friend passed by, gave me a significant look and said : "I know you were playing the devil!"
And I thought that after all, their idea of making precisely an angel out of me  was most certainly the best way not to have me recognized, for even  kids automatically relate me with hell!
Still, for  next year I decided, I want to be in the devil's skin.
So children should better be good from now on...












Wednesday, November 28, 2012

a night out in Prague


Saturday night. I was left with silence after the long phone call got abruptly cut, sitting on a bench beneath the imposing church, left with my thoughts and the shades of the dark square when laughter and a conversation in Hebrew broke the surrounding stillness. Three guys were walking by with beers in their hands and imagine my surprise when I recognized (or in fact he recognized me first)  one of them as the brother of an acquaintance from Sevilla. I was offered (and welcomed) a sip of beer, and the guys asked if I wouldn't join them for some drinks downtown.
So I ended up going back home to change outfits and joining them for a proper night out till late hours, carousing around known and unknown places, being surrealistically taken around by three Israeli young men in my own town, getting lost to them in one bar for hanging with other people and then finding them again at the good old last resort, the bar that used to be my second home from my 18 to 21 years, dancing my socks off, having drinks with my ex brother in law and smoking joints with some old times local businessman I hadn't seen in years. 
Highlight of the night, the Cross club (shame I had to wait for a friend from abroad to take me there) a place that could be described as one big piece of art, for going there feels   literally like having drinks inside one giant scrap sculpture. If I was complaining about Prague nightlife being poor and, more than anything, boring in style and lacking originality, well i owe Prague sincere apologies for this place makes it up for all the rest. I was sorry not to have my camera, but that's not so bad, for now I will have to go back to take a few pictures there. I will at least leave this video link for everyone to have an idea of that amazing space. a walk through the cross club 

Too bad the music seems to be hit and miss, and that night, it was not the good night -at least for us. I was glad to hear Chapeau Rouge was still considered as a place to be and was even happier to hear some really  cool music tunes when arriving there. Lets say Chapeau never fails, at least not upstairs. You even see certain people who have not moved from their spot on the bar for 15 years, isn't that amazing? Time passes and the world moves, but some things or people are like rocks. There for ever. It gives you a feeling of stability, which is highly needed when you step in that bar at 4 am. 
For a night, I almost had the feeling Prague was mine again. The only thing I failed to do (compared to my glorious party-animal-queen years) was dancing on the bar, but I think that precisely was a rather wise failure, considering the height of the heels I was wearing... 
On the other hand , I managed to bring a trophy home - one of the 5 helium blown balloons I received from some random weirdos in the street. I had dutifully freed the other ones, one by one to fly free with the wind. 
Yeah, a night out in Prague is still worth it!

Sunday, October 7, 2012

chick stuff is not (always) boring


"Romantic lady, single baby, sophisticated mama, 
Oh yes it's ladies night and the feeling's right, 
Oh yes it's ladies night oh what a night!"


Women stuff.. one week, every afternoon spent in one of the most girly environment , presenting the refined handbags of my talented friend and designer Mimi at the Prague Design & Fashion week. 
So far from what I am , hating shopping, but so close to what I love, for all the beauty. 
I have to admit I realised I was smiling more genuinely at the  men who were timidly daring the world of women to get a beautiful present for their beloved than at certain wannabe posh bitches with Louis Vuitton bags looking at the whole world with contempt, just because they had the (possibly fake) LV handbag. 
Dressed up in LFM clothes and thus wearing high heels (Devil knows I did suffer for LFM :) , I was probably looking like a sweet candy to these men. It was the aim anyway. These guys were sweet too, especially when they bought what i suggested without discussing it.
No wonder the week ended with a ladies' evening..
Four women around a a few bottles of good red wine. 
I do not like female only gatherings, I usually flee them. I get bored, or come late or in the best case I never show up - if I am warned in advance about the meeting's only-female crowd. 
This time though, it was different, it was just a ladies friends unexpected meeting, which started with a very decent conversation. Well I did think about it as a decent conversation but just remembered the real ice-breaker were the stories about various funny situations related to parties and consequential vomiting.. 
After the first bottle of wine,  we were all more animated while chatting and it even looked - at times - like four simultaneous and completely independent monologues about "me, myself and I". 
While tasting the second bottle and unwillingly doing some kind of group therapy, we realised we were all four probably matching the "repressed dominatrix" model with some behavior patterns to resolve.Well, one could argue about the "repressed" attribute knowing us, but who cares. Third bottle killed, we were in complete understanding of each-other and decided we were just great, damn all these men and their problems with their mothers. 
Luckily we all decided to go home, too bad it was suddenly raining outside. 
So we walked out, elegant and charming, just as if we were not drunk at all. 
Not a word about clothes, nails, shoes, haircuts...nothing of the boring chick stuff.
What a cool evening!






Friday, September 21, 2012

Essaouira-sick


How long, Essaouira...
a place that seems always wrapped in a dreamy haze. A place where everything goes very very slowly.
You ordered a coffee or an orange juice in one of the town's trendiest cafes? well you have to wait. Call the waiter three times, remind him you are there, repeat your order, cause no, it's not a tea you wanted, and in the end maybe you'll get your coffee or you'll have to deal with a tea. You're coming from Europe where things go more or less fast and precise, normally you would complain, but when you get the tea that you never ordered and the waiter smiles at you as if the world was perfect, well you inhale the perfume of the fresh mint, taste your sweet tea, lay back and start to believe the world is perfect, indeed.
After a few days in town, nothing can bother you anymore, for you're so relaxed that you couldn't care less about the surrounding slow motion. You're probably smoking some dope, too, which helps.
I remember these times there, these were made of blinding sun, roofs - day and night views- , beach - not so much on the beach, for the water is always freezing and the wind would slap us with the sand it was raising - , wind, wind, wind blowing so strong and cold at night after the day heat, tiny streets, never ending shops with colorful everything-you-want-to-buy, a port with grilled fish, the smell of sardines, getting lost and finding new streets, nice people, loads but loads of laughter in a cloud of  good quality smoke, laughter till the sunrise on the beach, on a roof, always looking at the sea.
I cherish these memories for I've been very happy everytime I was there.
I usually say that Essaouira is not Morocco, for it has an atmosphere of its own and her people are different.
Someone from there gave me the explanation once.
A friend of mine had invited us one evening to his rooftop that was overlooking the port, and we sat there, talked, smoked one spliff, another one, the stars were shining, and the boat lights in the distance were swaying, my friend was doing the talks and I was laughing my jaws off. We were also eating some biscuits and he was long commenting on their specific crick, crock, crick crock, sound. When I was totally stone I felt the need to confess my inner feeling about the town and whispered in the wind :
"You know, Essaouira is like a little South America (I had never been there by then but I was sure one would feel incredibly good overseas)" to which he answered just as solemnly "You know why the wind blows so strong inhere? It is to tear essaouira off Africa and have it drift away to South America."
Crick, crock, another biscuit was gone, with the wind...And the lights in the distance kept on swaying..
I'm not home-sick, I'm Essaouira-sick...




Monday, September 10, 2012

Hospital tales - Yay! I did it again


Now it's official, we are three. Three people, in two eyes. Doesn't make sense? 
Well someone , somewhere wrote I was a fanatic xenophile, which maybe explains I was meant to gladly welcome strangers not only in my country (ies), in my home(s) but also in my own body to coexist and more, to live together till death make us part. 

The receiving of donor tissue is a quite curious thing. This time, when I was taken to the operation room by this funny guy who was telling me about his testicles operation (?!) they gave me a box and some files to hold in my arms and take with me, which was fine until I read "donor tissue " on the box and asked, horrified, if the box was containing what I thought it was. One nurse laughed and said, "well it's for you, you gotta bring it with you!"  I was feeling really weird to transport in a box the human cornea that was going to be a part of me. Well, I didn't drop the precious treasure, only asked them to put it away from me as soon as we got on site.
There, as usual, I started to get high, and the anesthetist seemed just as high as I was, I can't remember all the stories he was telling but I was laughing out loud. Good stuff you get in operation rooms! 

Waking up was less hilarious, for I was in pain, intermittently crying for more drugs and for food. These people refused to give me anything to eat, which I think, doubled my pain. When I managed to call my sister late afternoon, I was only sobbing that I was going to starve to death and when she told me she could ask the nurses to give me something to eat I (supposedly) said there was absolutely no food to be found in the whole hospital. I received only dinner a bit later, which the nurses called dinner for the hungry wolf; I ate everything, and was still hungry...but I felt better at last.

From the next day on, I was receiving regular internal and external food supplies, from the hospital and from my family, and everything went well, the pains nearly disappeared and the sweet care of these lovely nurses made my stay...how to say that, "almost enjoyable" would be exaggerated regarding the circumstances, but "bearable"  wouldn't be just. Let's just say I could easily forget I was staying in a hospital unit. My stay was shorter than the first time since I seem to recover faster and after only 4 days my eye started to open spontaneously. Hello shiny psychedelic colors! 
After my first transplantation, I saw colors like never before and I thought it was just the effect of recovering normal sight after years of shaded vision. Well now I know it's not just this.  I've already mentioned it feels like looking through water, round edges, slightly blurred vision, with incredibly intense perception of colors. It's beautiful. I wish I could take a photograph of what I see, as I do not have the skills to paint it..Especially since I know this effect will fade while my sight will improve. 

So now we are three, me, and my two guests. I still have a long process in front of me, taking care of the newcomer till he/she feels at ease in his new home, but I'm already excited about all the wonderful things we will see together. Welcome new eyes, welcome brand new world!

Oh and if anyone was wondering how I was typing this a few days after the surgery, well let's say I didn't look much into the screen... or it was my third eye? 





Thursday, August 30, 2012

moods - where sadness becomes an empire and falls




Where there is ruin, there is hope for a treasure.” Rumi

Sadness, blues, spleen, anger, fear, all those who settled in my mind lately in a kind of final assault of a soul under siege for a long time. They entered, triumphant, displaying their Trojan horse , that suitcase I had bought from the Chinese and that started to break up right at the beginning of my complicated journey from F. to P. via two other cities. No, you don't want to be in a big city taking the metro with two suitcases, the heaviest one having a broken handle. Well I felt that the whole universe had conspired against me, and I felt like drowning myself in the Guadalquivir out of shame (but even the Guadalquivir was gone), or just leaving the luggage somewhere in a corner, hell take whatever makes my life so horrible. It is probably my raging nature that made me hold on till my final destination with all that stuff. (cursing the Chinese industry all day long helped, obviously).
My arrival marked, though, my surrender to my invaders. Even the skies cried with me, or for me. Please get in, I'm one big wreck and my cheerful inner population, flooded in tears, hid in the ruins of its past grandeur. Fear was made queen, and her generals started to feast on my dark and uncertain
future.
However, my heart was still lit as a lamp bulb, and I could see, in the distance, the reassuring intermittent beam of a lighthouse.
Being from the heart of Europe and momentarily on site, my mood is only as consistent as the local weather can be. As fast as the skies cleared up, I politely asked my invaders to f*** off.  I went out, met a couple of friends, and had great fun. 
Of course, the bitches will be back as often as the weather changes, but they won't come to stay. 



“The wound is the place where the Light enters you.” Rumi  


I couldn't have thought of a better quote. "Them there eyes, you better look out if you're wise, these brown eyes, they sparkle, they bubble, they're gonna get you in a whole lot of trouble.." One is now half brown and half grey, the one I share with a guest I learned to cherish, them there eyes, they're expecting another guest now. (http://manikita.blogspot.cz/2012/04/hospital-tales-or-about-getting-blind.html)
Afraid of opening a wound again, yes, but since it is to let the light enter again, what else could I do but take it bravely. They got me in some trouble these eyes, indeed, but what counts more than looking at this world through a clear sight.For some reason, I am quite sure my insight will improve as soon as I fully recover my vision. Probably because recovering sight on one eye has already changed my vision on many things, mostly personal issues. It is as if things were becoming limpid. Or as if I could suddenly see a larger part of the general picture. And I''m looking forward to see the full picture, cleared of dark stains.


"To achieve the mood of a warrior is not a simple matter. It is a revolution."  Carlos Castaneda
So here I am, in process  for my personal revolution. Summon the warrior in me and get ready for what will only be another battle on my way. Dismiss self-indulgence, self-pity. Welcome back sane self esteem, real will, and turn the anger into energy to move forward and make my dreams come true. 
Give away all the love I can, and open my arms to accept love and make it happen. 

Sounds like I'm trying hard to convince myself of all that? Yes!!!! for I need to believe now that everything will be alright, maybe not today, but eventually. And one thing I need to remember, too. Not to take myself too seriously. I am far too insignificant for the universe to conspire against me.





Wednesday, August 15, 2012

In solis sis tibi turba locis

In solis sis tibi turba locis (In solitude, be a multitude to thyself) Tibullus 

I surely have no problems with this. As much as I agree with Montaigne when he says we need solitude, I think that arriving to a new country or a new city is the best time for a retreat with yourself. 
I've always done that for a few days  at least (to entire weeks), in any new place I was settling for a bit longer than just holidays.
Is it to absorb the surrounding atmosphere, take a deep breath of the environment and appreciate it on your own. The timing is ideal, you are on site, but not really yet, which gives a kind of freedom that one gradually looses - voluntarily - while integrating a society. Once you'll have lost it , you'll seek to get it back again etc...
The first moments are magic. 
And here, in F. with the beach within bike reach, solitude can be a luxury.
Who needs people to go to the beach with? it's like going to the movies , or to a concert. It's as nice to have company as it is unnecessary. (I will not even comment about these people you have certainly heard about, exasperating bummers that go to a concert and keep talking all the time,  .......) 
Anyway, the ocean is a show for itself and strolling on the dunes is just as enjoyable. I do not speak to the sea, I just sing sometimes and whisper prayers. 
Thanks god for a few days of silence in my overtalkative all yearlong race. One million words a second, they said I could do that. How could they count that?  
The time I usually spend on blabbering I dedicated to soul feeding - reading, and for some weird reason I read two very distinct books, which plots have absolutely nothing in common except for the extreme solitude of their main characters. . 
In "The Tunnel", by Ernesto Sabato, we follow the evolution of a mind leading to a violent murder. The narrator, Juan Pablo Castel, notorious painter, perpetrator of both this crime and his emotional and social  suicide, since the victim is the only person he loves for understanding him, gained my sympathy right from the beginning with the following statement: 
  "Diré antes que nada, que detesto a los grupos, las sectas, las cofradías, los gremios y, en general, esos conjuntos de bichos que se reúnen por razones de profesión, de gusto o de manía semejante. Esos conglomerados tienen una cantidad de atributos grotescos: la repetición del tipo, la jerga, la vanidad de creerse superiores al resto."*
I so understand him! 
The character is trapped in his distorted, misinterpreting mania, he reasons with only himself and his own madness while explaining his motives, all constructed on very solid logical deduction, and the issue seems inevitable. Or say, in 136 pages he makes you fully understand and acknowledge there was no other possibility for him. The novel turns up being a masterly described voyage into the twists and turns of a tangled mind and a heavy criticism of art critics and more generally of the" me too" syndrome -see Louis CK -Awesome possum & indie coffee place vid on youtube for the latter. 
(And it is also the first novel I appreciated reading entirely in Spanish)
Here should come something about the second book, The heart of Darkness by Joseph Conrad, but since I have started to read it again to savour the author eloquence better, I'll leave it for another post. 

In deliberate solitude, you are  with yourself (already a multitude),  with the ocean, with artists singing in your livingroom, with Juan Pablo Casteles, Marlows and other fictional characters... In fact, you end up overcrowded!



*  "I will say first of all, I hate groups, cults, brotherhoods, guilds and, in general, these sets of bugs that come together for professional reasons, taste or similar hobby. These clusters have a number of grotesque attributes: the repetition of the pattern, the jargon, the vanity of believing themselves above the rest. "

Friday, July 20, 2012

Noctiluca scintillans and other sexy protozoas




"ay que si el mar es tan azul
es de mirar tanto al cielo
ay que si el mar es tan azul
es de tanto mirar pal cielo"

It was definitely the best house in town. In fact it is located in a district named like one of ex-Yugoslavia’s republics. After a surprisingly good meal made of cuttlefish, leaves of the garden’s over present basil, apple and more secret ingredients, all served in green melon, we moved to the terrace to enjoy coffee and cigarettes.
The sun was high in a pristine blue sky, a light but refreshing breeze was blowing and we were gazing at this beautiful orange grove surrounding us. After the blue (or white, or bright purple - depending on the pair of eyes) painted orange trees, there was the marsh, silver blue naps among deep green isles. On one side this scenery continued toward the sea, on the other side, we could see, in the distance, the buildings of the city center.  It looked as if these were part of another world. From the Laranjal,  where we felt so far from any kind of urban rush, separated from it by the natural barrier of water and marsh vegetation , the city skyline would appear like an after apocalyptic vision.



It was after 2012. They had been hiding up there in the mountains, where not even the church ever entered. While the known world was crumbling, they had been awaiting better times on that peak, in between the two worlds. There, at night, under a concave sky,  it was possible to pass to the other side, where “o Mundo” was finishing. This was where they met the weirdest creatures, like the Silly people, which real name was in fact the Ceiling people, for they would always walk upside down, feet on the ceiling and heads hanging down. The mountain creatures were quite friendly and welcoming to them, but still, they were curious to know what was happening on the coast. One sunny day, they climbed the watch tower as they did everyday to notice that the waters were finally retiring. They thanked their hosts, and started to walk down hill.
Once on the coast, they realized they couldn’t go back to the deserted city, so they chose to stay in an abandoned house nearby in the middle of an orange grove. The air was pure there, and some food was still to be found. Everyday, they looked at the city in the distance, and wondered what had happened to its entire people.


The afternoon passed in the best relaxed atmosphere, as if time had stopped all around, just to let us enjoy the magic of that place. Apart from real birds and the fake peacocks, chicken and monkeys masterly imitated by the Wizard, the only external sound we could hear was the train’s. Apparently, when you hear a train, it means that the weather is going to refresh. But in that heat, one couldn’t care less. The Sociologist was appearing from time to time when making a break from his studies, changing our hocus pocus ping pong into something that sounded like a normal conversation. As soon as he left though, we were left to our ravings until the Wizard asked the strangest question to the Flower Lady.
« Have you ever seen a glowing sea? » As if he knew beforehand the answer would be yes.
She had been spending some time overseas on the Caribbean coast, and the day before her departure back to Europe, the sea wore, as if to say goodbye, the shiniest of its attire.


They lived quite well considering the general situation, but as the days passed they started to wish for a sign, something that would give them an indication, needing to know whether there was still hope to see other people, or not. Apart from them, no trace of a human. They thought that most people could have drowned when the wave arrived, and thus were rather scared to investigate in the city center.
 The only thing that broke their routine at some point is that a message appeared one day in one of the old huge wells where they could take fresh water . It was handwritten at mid- height of the well. They couldn't understand how it got there since they hadn’t seen anyone and it was anyway impossible to get that deep in the well without risking falling down.
The message said: “Look for the glowing sea”

I was not acquainted with the glowing sea phenomenon, and asked for explanation. The Flower Lady spoke about glowing particles illuminating the sea, just like the dress of my first Barbie. (This happened to be a Barbie whose fancy pink dress was covered with tiny phosphorescent stars which would shine at night after being exposed to light. So I tried to imagine a whole sea glittering like that doll of mine. The image seemed quite cool to me!) In fact this particular shine, as explained by the Wizard, was made by the occasional presence in the sea of a marine protozoa called Noctiluca Scintillans , a.k.a Sea Sparkle, Sea ghost or Fire of sea.  From the Sea ghost we logically passed to  graveyards will-o-wisps ( I have no idea if it was because what causes the bioluminescent characteristic of the protozoa is produced by a luciferin-luciferase system) and some kind of bizarre syllogism lead us to deduct that the protozoas could be in fact souls of drowned people. Do I have to mention the reference to the famous song of  Prince which was originally called “You sexy protozoa” ? That afternoon, our thoughts were as fizzy as  noctilucas and as sparkling as cheating stars.



Perplex, they thought long over the sentence that had appeared in the well, until one of them remembered an ancient prophecy that used to be told by an African woman: “The sea, she’d say, tired by the inefficiency of humans in their effort to repair what previous generations had messed up with their so-called progress, would one day resolve things its own way. Simply wash it all and retake what belonged to her. The waters would rise and retire, taking the humans with her in its depths. Humans would be forever part of her, as their remaining souls would illuminate the shore one night a year to commemorate their short presence on earth. There was only one way to counter the terrible destiny: three humans  acquainted with both worlds had to bath in the sea the night it was lit by human souls.”
They understood the prophecy had come true. They were three, and they had dared to cross the border of Mu (o Mundo) while waiting in the mountains.
And so another waiting started. They had no idea which night the sea could devolve the human souls, so they had to spend every night on the beach.
Many days succeeded, the sea was moody, dancing a wild tango with the wind until indecent hours. Except for the whirling white foam of the waves, it was darker then ever. With every passing night watch, they were less confident. If it was not for the serenity of the Laranjal, they would have given up and left.
They would not talk about their distress, never, but it was as if they could read in each other’s minds anyway.
One day, the heat was unbearable. The temperature had increased dramatically, so even the orange grove was feeling like hell. They spent most of the day in, sleeping or daydreaming with closed jalousies to be protected from the heat. The sunset came and they didn’t notice it. They came out of their strange half-sleep when the night was already advanced and felt bad; what if they had missed the glow? They hardly dressed anything and ran as one to the shore.

They saw it already from the road, it looked as if someone had set thousands of floating candles in the sea.
They came closer and just stared at that amazing beauty. The surface was remarkably still, only the glitter would move subtly with the very light swell.
Warm was the air and so was the water, everything was calling them in. Three human shades were silhouetted holding  each other’s hands  and slowly entering the brilliance. 

When the sun rose the next day thousands of people woke up on the beach.  As if nothing has happened, they started to walk in little groups toward the city. Only time will tell if they learned anything from their experience. One expression stayed though, in the local flirting jargon : "you sexy protozoa, you have such a wonderful casing!"

The Wizzard, the Flower Lady and Farolita still meet from time to time in the Laranjal. What happened before and during the night of the Noctilucas disappeared from their memory. So they just keep blabbering stories about protozoas on lazy summer afternoons and ... wish to see the sea glowing again.






Tuesday, July 3, 2012

when you drink the sky and the moon and see flying kangaroos in Prague


It started the day when the weather was so hot some would see kangaroos flying in the crowns of the courtyard trees. Coming from Sevilla, I was finally feeling at ease, or better said, I was not feeling cold.
As I was sitting in that kitchen where everybody was complaining about the heat I suddenly noticed this glass filled with all the sky and the moon of that summer night.
Prague becomes so beautiful when the sun shines and illuminates both buildings and faces. Since I arrived I could not miss a traditional walk crisscrossing the river, one bridge after the other, carefully avoiding the sightseeing rush on the Charles Bridge for, in the end, for an ex-homie, that one is much better to look at from a hill above or from another bridge.
I had forgotten this little path just across my bridge that I had taken last time some 25 years ago since the restaurant Expo 58 had closed down in 1991. Good surprise to see that the building that impressed Brussels so much together with the Laterna Magica in 1958 was restored (even though it became a stupid office space) and that the view from the other side was still spectacular.
This time, I didn't spend much time in the center, cause, she said, "now the center is "out". Up the hill it's cooler". I have to admit the peaceful  tourist-free streets of Vinohrady district, which used to be covered with vineyards from the XIV's century, were more pleasant than ever on these warm days. No one can guess how tall and how green  the trees are in the vast courtyards of these Art nouveau buildings , no one  but the swallows that loop around her windows just before a summer storm.
Sunday felt as the beginning of a new annual tradition started last year in this beautiful garden of Lysolaje, where old memories flow like wine and taste like summer cherries. In between the grilled chicken and the merguez, the heart seemed to taste best, "tender and bleeding" as he said, after condemning the evil red tuna eaters (or sushi bitches).
The fish specialist (with whom we would never talk if he was selling some defrost frozen fish) gave us the solution to the jelly fish proliferation caused by the progressive extinction of its natural ennemy - the tuna fish - which was, obviously, to export all the jelly fish to China where they eat them. Frozen or defrost fresh, we Mediterraneans could finally get rid of this holiday bummer and make money out of it. A bit later the baking specialist developped a theory on Asians considering the rabbit as a sacred animal  since the Chinese girl he had met once ran away horrified when he proposed her to cook a good dinner with the pet rabbit she had at home.
The conversation turned and whirled about food between us, the fish specialist, the pastry chef, and the boss before it sank in laughter and all the hilarious souvenirs of good old times which I would not dare to repeat here, cause as someone has told me, the best stories are the ones you do not tell. 

If it hadn't been for the eggs that had landed on us from the fourth floor after Saturday night dinner, I would have thought that after drinking the sky and the moon in a wine glass, even in Prague, when it's summertime,  the living is easy.








Wednesday, June 20, 2012

Sevilla or my personal Bermuda triangle



As with any magic place, we can forget about locating it on a map. So if I tell you of this place as the Bermuda's triangle, please do not come to me with any kind of geographical considerations. This is not about the North Atlantic ocean, this is not about the Sargasso sea, this is about getting lost and maybe considered missing  (by people not living there, or even by yourself) in Sevilla. How does this happen?
One day you land in Sevilla, no matter for which reason, no matter where you came from, and the city welcomes you with its uncanny tranquility. In fact, you feel it straight away after arrival but you only adapt to slow motion after two or three days for you to get  used to a diffuse feeling of serenity and ease.
The first time you leave the magic, you just think of coming back and staying longer. The second time you leave, it has already started getting into you, and you feel your heart aching. The third time you leave, your decision is made to come back for good.
Everything helps you to settle,  Sevilla dresses in her most beautiful attire, sings for you, dances for and with you and finally embraces you tenderly. You feel home. You feel like you had never known what was home before. You're not falling in love, for that happened at first sight. You are getting into the structure, into the stones, into the trees, into the azahar scent. All this, again, is effortless, for you're being enchanted voluntarily. Meanwhile you're soaking in the city, Sevilla soaks into you, gets under your skin, takes possession of you. You loose track of time and you fall in the sweetest sleep, lulled between the two arms of the Guadalquivir. Sometimes, you leave for a short time, suffocated by this overwhelming mother, but as soon you're out, your heart starts bleeding again, begging for return. At every return, you realise that nothing can top the enchanting nights of Sevilla, neither its bright mornings. The sun seemed to choose this privileged spot to salute you everyday and caress your skin.
The Sevillians are part of the magic formula, they show you around, constantly pointing out the overpowering appeal of their hometown in the most caring way.
The other people you meet, lost wanderers like you, are any kind of exiles who, under the spell as well, mirror your luck and enhance the surrounding beauty by their personal charm, talent, and skills.





I am about to break the spell. I will attempt to reappear after two years in my Bermuda triangle. I still don't know if I will be able to leave. I will have at least thrown a bottle to the sea, which could be found somewhere in case I'm still missing, enchanted in Sevilla. Or I will break free and in that case, wherever I'll go, I'll carry a piece of Sevilla with me.





"Ainsi le petit prince apprivoisa le renard. Et quand l'heure du départ fut proche:
- Ah! dit le renard... Je pleurerai.
- C'est ta faute, dit le petit prince, je ne te souhaitais point de mal, mais tu as voulu que je t'apprivoise...
- Bien sûr, dit le renard.
- Mais tu vas pleurer ! dit le petit prince.
- Bien sûr, dit le renard.
- Alors tu n'y gagnes rien !
- J'y gagne, dit le renard, à cause de la couleur du blé."

in le Petit Prince -  Antoine de Saint Exupéry




Tuesday, May 29, 2012

What is this thing called home



Essalamu alaykum
I was born with this greeting in my ears and it's only now, more than three decades later, that I understood one fundamental thing. God bless my grandfather for making me get that.
Most people know that this expression, used as good day or hello, literally means "peace on you". What most people do not know, unless they speak Arabic,  is that the "you" is a plural form.  Obviously, the answer comes similar, Wa Alaykum essalam , plural form again. As if "you" when greeted were not only one person but many.
And this indeed is the answer! You, me , whoever, are never alone. For as my grandfather says, everyone of us has an angel on each shoulder. They're writing your good or bad deeds and thoughts for after, when the final countdown comes. They also catch you if you fall, if they're not too busy writing. So when you greet someone you mean to greet the person and their two angels. It would be rude not to greet these two, that's certain.
My grandfather knows a lot of things, he's been on this earth for nearly a full century. He always knew no one had ever stepped on the moon, because "come on, it's ridiculous, it's too far, how could they get there". When he talks, forget what you ever learned at school, and just listen.
Because when you cross the strait and you get here, it's like passing through a magic mirror. Another world.
Where construction works on  tramways are not made to improve the city-life, but to block major axes, and thus  prevent the passing of big demonstrations. Where a roundabout in some places is in fact a pile of garbage in the middle of the road.
It's a world of storytellers - no wonder I've always been inventing stories- .
There may be a thin line between "reality" and not so much "reality", but no one knows where it lies and no one tries to define it. It doesn't really matter. The most important is to live things and keep going. And listen. I do have a hard time the first days after arrival, it's not easy to get back to to the other side of the mirror. So I resist, until the atmosphere slowly soaks back into me. I wonder what my angels say about that, but at least , inhere, the voices are not whispering "have a beer, have a beer".  They may be shocked by the change as well so they remain silent. Who knows. At least they do not have to answer when someone greets them, I do it for them.
My grandfather has seen three kings succeeding, he has seen the French and the Spanish in his land, he's seen them leave. He comes from the desert, doesn't eat fish although he's lived most of  his life on the coast. When he was already over 90 years old a gas cylinder exploded in his face. The explosion blew the windows of the house but my grandfather stayed alive and despite heavy burns on the face and the hands, he was back home from hospital after only 7 days. I think he's something like a robocop. Inhere they may say it is thanks to his baraka , this  blessing given to those descending from the prophet Muhammad. (or MAOMETTO as they call him in Italian, no it is not an ice cream I swear!!!)  I like my grandfather's world where forty angels pull the sun up at dawn to make it rise and then down to have it set. How could you not listen to that and not believe it, even for one brief moment?
Even my angels seem to listen, unless they're chatting with his angels and I don't know about it.
Who knows.
Peace on you all, people and angels




Sunday, May 20, 2012

Meeting the Jamanta; or why Portugal keeps on surprising me



"What would an ocean be without a monster lurking in the dark? It would be like sleep without dreams"  
Werner Herzog


We had slept only two hours, woke up still tipsy judging from our nonsensical blabbering in the bus which no one could understand for making up new words and verb forms such as "si je chwaziland" at the crossovers of our multiple language conversation. Nevertheless, we were tired, but happy, for what was awaiting us on the other side of our journey was worth it. 
Beach house was the reward : surrounded by water, Atlantic ocean in front, Ria Formosa behind, blue sky all above, what more to ask for? 
Time for suspending the clock, lying immobile like a lizard, suntanning till burning and shedding an old skin  to finally come out as a new person. Time for diving in the fresh Atlantic embrace, feeling humble in front of its swell and releasing all kind of sorrow in its depths. Time for childish joy while getting rolled over by the waves, crashing into warm sand or collecting shells and pebbles. Time for evening drinks outside, clinking glasses with the setting sun and seeing (a few drinks later)  fallen stars shine on the dark ocean surface before drowning.
Our first few days were as peaceful as the skyline and our evenings were punctuated by sessions held on the balcony where our parlor was improvised,  receiving our dear friends from the mainland for the time of a frugal dinner and several bursts of laughter disrupting the calm of the night. 


Was it because of the storm on the fourth day,  was it for the fallen sinking star we had seen the night before, or was it just because someone had mentioned,  on one of these late dinners, the possible presence of a "Jamanta" in the waters of Ria Formosa? 


Anyway, the day after the storm, even though the sky was clear again, the ocean was still tormented and too rough to swim, so we decided to take a daytrip on the Ria Formosa and do some bird watching. We woke up at dawn, crossed the bridge to take the bus to Faro city center and catch the boat on the peer. It had definitely been a great idea : the boat trip on the lagoon was breathtaking. If the Great Lisbon Earthquake and the following 15 m high tsunami of 1755 caused a lot of damage everywhere, it had at least one positive aspect: the one of shaping the amazing Ria Formosa into its actual form. We enjoyed our day to the most including a stop on the (not so) Desert island  where we could greet our jolly fisherman we had met a few months before on our first trip to Portugal. On the way back, I was a bit tired so I left the group of people to sit on the stern of the boat and watch the sunset. Here I was daydreaming again, looking at the quiet water when I suddenly  saw a large stain a few meters away. I first thought the water was just a bit more shallow on that spot... but the stain was moving. 
And then, it happened: the Jamanta appeared in all its grandeur,  flapping its large wings on the surface as if to fly out of the water. I was so surprised I couldn't make a move, was just staring at this thing reminding of a giant bat. I had the time to look into one of its side eyes which seemed to wink at me and a second later it splashed back in the water and disappeared in the darkness. I had never seen anything like that, and was pretty sure these animals were to be found only in tropical waters. The discussion I had heard some days before about a Jamanta in the lagoon had sounded like a joke to me, some kind of urban legend. But here was the reality before my eyes. I quickly ran to the other side of the boat to find everybody chilling and talking as if nothing had happened. As I was all excited telling them what I had just seen, they first listened and seemed just surprised, but when I said the Jamanta had a wingspan of approximately 7 meters, some laughed and some tapped their forehead while looking at me. To make it short, they didn't believe me. So I looked at the only person who knew me well enough to know I couldn' t have made it up, begging for support. But he only shrugged and pointed at his "Boytoy" necklace with an ironic smile. My eyes flashed with rage and I looked all around wishing the Jamanta would reappear to prove me right. But the water was all calm again, and we were nearly reaching the peer. 


Now I wonder if I was not carried away by my daydreaming. But I still tell you, that if one day you travel to Algarve, you should keep your eyes and mind open, for maybe, if you're lucky, you'll be blessed by the sight of that elegant water flying creature called Jamanta. 
Maybe. 
Or maybe not.








 Jamanta :  a.k.a. Manta ray or Devil ray 

Saturday, April 21, 2012

Hospital tales or about getting blind and recovering my sight thanks to someone else's eye Part II

Things are not always what they seem to be. 
Ok we all know that. But are we really aware of the huge gap between what we think they are, what we see, and what they are (supposedly) in "reality"? 

When I had made an appointment with the surgeon for my cornea transplantation, I was so scared that I strongly believed I was going to die. I know it may sound funny, and exaggerated. But I knew it. It was not that I was afraid of having some complications during the surgery, and loose an eye, or that the intervention was especially dangerous and could cost my life. It was not the result of any reasonable thinking. It was just a diffuse feeling telling me that, inevitably, there would be no tomorrow after I'd have stepped into hospital. I was afraid of the hospital building itself, of the nurses, of the blood tests, of the needle they would stick into my hand for anesthesia. That fear could have killed me easier than anything else, I guess. However, once it was decided, I had no way out. People around me would try to cheer me up with reasonable arguments, in vain.  And no jokes were accepted, for I would instantly burst into tears. I felt like a dead man walking.

Getting into the lion's cage
Some part of me seemed to be more or less conscious in my delirium, because I didn't do anything to delay the operation term, and my sympathetic surgeon tried his best to speed things up. So less than 4 weeks after my first appointment with him, on a sunny morning, I was admitted at the ophthalmology department with a brand new pajama and mp3 player. I was white as a sheet and had "no blood pressure at all" (quoting the nurse who took it) but my mind was somehow more relaxed. As with anything unpleasant or scary I have to go through, the moment I'm facing it with no possibility to escape, I calm down. The in-patient unit is located on the top floor of one of the (huge) hospital site old buildings, so I had a great view on the city from my window and even a beautiful sunny terrace -where it was possible to smoke!- a few rooms away from mine. That, as well as the pills they gave me in the evening to have a good sleep, totally made my day.

High on drugs on a spaceship with aliens
The next day they woke me up at 6 in the morning and first made me swallow two pills.Then, I was given a pair of white stockings with patterns (I was told later they were compression stockings made to prevent embolism) and one of these surgical gowns they call in czech, who knows why, "little angel". Well I don't know if I looked like a little angel, but when I dressed up and saw myself in these white stockings, that shirt that I couldn't close in the front and the blue panties with navy anchors print I was wearing, I started to laugh out loud and  wished I had a camera to take a picture of myself. I was getting high on the pills and actually didn't stop laughing as they put me on a stretcher and brought me to the operation room.
There, I thought everything looked like on board of a Star Trek spaceship. I was welcomed by a jolly anesthetist,  who was joking about my surgeon being always late. Guess what? it made me laugh. I just had the presence of mind to ask her a very important question: "I am not going to wake up during the surgery, am I?" It was her turn to laugh and say "well you will certainly wake up, but only after the surgery!" My surgeon turned up, we greeted each other, and yet someone was telling me to count slowly up to ten, and to have sweet dreams... off was I to nowheristan...

Nowheristan: appr. one hour surgery under general anesthesia 
Corneal transplantation is a surgical procedure where a damaged or diseased cornea is replaced by donated corneal tissue in its entirety (penetrating keratoplasty- my case) or in part. 
After removing the damaged cornea, the donor tissue is sewn in place with two circular/starshaped stitches. 
I still have no idea about more surgical details (like how on earth do they sew in your eye???) but I'm  not curious to know at all before having the other eye fixed. 



Waking up and getting high again
I woke up in my room, I was dizzy, remembered the spaceship.. that was it: I had been kidnapped by aliens! I stood up to go to the bathroom, walked two meters, was stopped by a nurse who took my arm and said I was going to fall. I didnt see much, but made it there and back to my bed. I was slowly getting back to reality... until I suddenly felt a deep pain in my eye. I just had the reflex to grab the bell and squeeze it as strong as my pain was. Someone came, I felt an injection and I was off sleeping again...
I woke up in the afternoon, was advised not to eat, but hell, I was hungry!!! So I ate, and actually felt better.Then I spent some time talking frenetically to my mother and my sister on the phone about who knows what (yes, well, the truth is I cannot stop talking even right after a surgery...) and I fell asleep again.

Six hospital fairies
From then on, for about two days, because of a rare post-surgical complication (no, it was not enough that I had a rare genetic defect, I also had to have a weird reaction to the surgery...) I was put drops in my eyes every half an hour, (or was it every 15 mns?) day and night. Heard about the torture process when the person is not allowed to sleep? Well it was similar. It was a pain for me and a pain for the nurses who had to run all night long to drop antibiotics in my eye. As my infection was slowly dropping away, and the application of antibiotics became less frequent, things got obviously better. Music eased my moments of sorrow: Camaron, Fernanda y Bernarda  accompanied my nights with their quejio, while Celia Cruz washed away the tears caused by the first painful morning drop. Before the ward round at 7h30 every morning, I was already dancing in my room. Did I say earlier that I was scared of nurses ? I ended up loving them. I was lucky maybe but these were like fairies. Some were holding my hand when I was not feeling well, some were making me laugh - "kůzlátkokůzlátkootevři to očičko"-, some were even sharing their own lunch with me when I didn't like what the hospital served. 

Funny in-patient with exotic visitors
I wonder if I was the craziest patient staying at that hospital that spring. The unit was rather calm, as it was the end of the surgical season, and I kept on singing along with my mp3 player all day long as well as receiving exotic visitors. After the first two days, no one of the nurses or the other patient had any doubt when an African, Asian, or Mediterranean  person was stepping out of the elevator on our floor. They were all directed straight to my room. I was receiving alcohol free beer, sushi, thai food, french pastry, and my sister made a sensation when she entered with an Afro hairstyle specially made up to make me laugh. I was spoiled! 
I was sleeping on my lucky charms, and more than one nurse had a surprised look when they found a large Chinese coin with Buddha and a little pendant with the goddess Lakshmi under my pillow..To top it all, I was a rather non-serious patient (especially compared to most of the other older patients) and managed to make fun of everything, even of my doctor who was so kind. Well the day he accidentally hit his knee against his desk, I chuckled (I did feel a bit bad not to have retained my hilarity) and the nurse didn't help with her not convincingly severe remark "Come on don't laugh here, laugh in your room!" so I left groping my way and laughing to tears.

And the best was yet to come

I was released after 12 days, I was alive (surprise!) and my stay had changed all my perception of hospital care. Not that I wanted to stay, but I was in deep admiration for the dedication of the medical staff, from the surgeon who literally "opened my eyes", to the nurses at the hospital unit where I stayed. 
And the best was yet to come for, by then, my eye had remained swollen and closed and I had no idea of what things would look like, once I would see them with my new eye. 






I owe sincere thanks to Dr. Michalis Palos  and his medical staff at Ophtalmology department of  VFN in Prague for their care and for making me see things as I had never seen them before!

Part I : http://www.manikita.blogspot.com.es/2012/03/about-getting-blind-and-recovering-my.html




Monday, April 16, 2012

April in Seville or what spring can bring

"Lleva azahar, lleva olivas,
Andalucía, a tus mares. "

F.G. Lorca (Baladilla de los tres rios)


Spring unfolded in orange blossoms. Walking in Seville at this time of the year means walking with your nostrils wide open toward the sky, catching at every step the utterly pleasant scent of these tiny white flowers flying and falling around like snowflakes. With the azahar, came the Semana Santa, kicking off April's festivities. Did I say festivities? I did my first Holy Week "madrugada" this year and if the weather was rather moody, well at least I could see quite a few Virgins and Christs dancing their ways through the city. 

Last year I was waiting 4 hours for la Virgen de la Esperanza in the rain and she never came out. This time, it seems she wanted to make it up and she pursued us all night long on Holy Thursday. 
We saw her come out of her church in Triana, "en la gloria", under a rain of rose petals and a thunder of shouts "Trianeeeeeeeraaaaaaaa!!! Guapaaaaa!!!"  She was the dancing queen of the night, preceded and followed by a never ending cortege of cones, these "nazarenos" or "penitentes" who would accompany her during her approximately 12 hours stroll through the city center. The "capirote" or conic hat the penitents wear, which first reminds of the Ku Klux Klan fashion seems to come from the Spanish inquisition times, when heretics or other sinners were punished by the religious court and were  forced to wear one and  put under public humiliation. 
The link with the Ku Klux Klan is not clear as these are anti-catholic. But who cares in the end. They all look scary. 

"Tirititando de frio bajaban quatro gitanas por la orillita de un rio 
Tiritiritiritiri Tiritiritiritirititando de frio 
Luna que brilla en los mares los mares oscuros 
Ay luna tu no estas cansa de girar al viejo mundo 
Ay luna queate cormigo y aun no te vayas porque dicen que a veces se escapa el alma se escapa el alma" 
Camaron

So after La Esperanza danced her way to the Triana bridge, and after we had time to drink another couple of beers, and encounter the police and state the obvious (that they were liars for example), we moved to the other side of the river and  witnessed the surrealistic Semana Santa effect. At 6 am, the streets were crowded more than at midday, all bars and coffee shops open, kids, elderly, teenagers, all there, having coffees, eating, drinking beers...as if no one in Seville was sleeping. We had to stop at some point as another procession was crossing our way and we waited until we realised it was our Trianera again. Half an hour later, we moved two streets up, and here she was again! It was close to 8 am, it was cold, we were tired, literally tirititando de frio but decided to wait for the procession that was following her to the cathedral. And there, as the sun was rising, the magic happened, in this bizarre silence of dawn, El Cristo de los Gitanos appeared bending under a large cross. He was stunning in his pain, so touching as he swayed on a sad clarinet solo. A true moment of grace and pure beauty.
We followed him a bit, and went back to Triana, The sun was  high in the sky and on the bridge, people were already waiting for Esperanza to come back home. It was ten in the morning. Bedtime, finally. 

The next two nights were just as long, the Virgins and Christs were simply keeping us from sleeping. Strangely enough, El Cristo Resucitado was the one who attracted least interest. And as a matter of fact, he was rather boring. By the time he resurrected, the Sevillanos were already tired. Not like in Alhama de Murcia where he quite surprisingly decided to follow the global trend and dance samba to "Ai se eu te pego".


Guadalquivir, alta torre
y viento en los naranjales.
¡Ay, amor
que se fue por el aire!

Semana santa ended, my dear friend left and Sevilla returned to its relative tranquility. The wind kept blowing strong as if we were on the coast, swirling the orange blossoms. Spring time brought us the subtle guitar of Juan Ramon Caro, and a twirling Marco Flores. The New York Times talked about his magic "florid hands" and indeed, just like the azahar scent, his dance transported me in delight. Beauty is the name of his performance, blooming are his hands and perfect as nature is the slightest movement he does on stage, making his audience  smile steadily  for all the time of his show and even long after.

The wind was still blowing this sunday afternoon as we sat on the river bank that overlooks the Guadalquivir, dreaming of a true ocean breeze. Well, in our nostalgic mood for the sea, we ended up meeting a pirate who had lost his boat, and thus, was taking hostages at la Traviesa and releasing them against a glass of rum. The pirate made us laugh so much, as well as he did with all the other guests and people passing by the cafe. Me and Ale, temporary landlubbers, happily decided to join our kidnapper for more adventures. Since we do not have a boat yet, we can still  make a pirate incursion into the upcoming Feria. Or go there dressed in Indian saris and riding an elephant instead of a horse. 
Who knows what all can still happen in Seville in April, when you follow the orange blossom.